Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Oh Mah Gad Shus



(Source of detail and runway photos: style.com) 

     Miuccia Prada has an immense talent for creating trends in mens footwear; she has wittingly combined typical styles/features of classic shoes to wittingly create new fads in fashion. 





Triple hybrid shoe
One of the first footwear hypes she made was in Spring 2011. The shoes were a triple hybrid of oxfords, espadrilles and sneakers (as seen on the top of the page to the left). I've asked a lot of my friends about their opinion on them and my conclusion is that you either love em' or you hate em'. Those who enjoyed them said they the shoes are unique in a quirky/cheeky sense; the clash between formal (oxfords) and casual (espadrilles and sneakers) makes a new statement.
     My friends who weren't the biggest fan of them said they're a bit too odd and that they are a forced mash-up. The espadrille roping clashes with the leather because they are two materials with a totally different feel: espadrille roping gives off a loose folk style whereas leather is more rigid and bold in it's statement. Also, taking into consideration the two-inch platform they can be a bit much.
     My opinion on the shoes is that they are an amazingly clever hybrid that are surprisingly versatile. These shoes can be worn formally or casually in such a way that it will never look forced. As you can see in the pic below, they can be paired with a typical suit ensemble; but more importantly they will enhance the look by making a modern/contemporary style.
   
Here in Chicago, a mecca of businessmen and women, I encounter many people who are suited up in well-tailored outfits that are topped off with a pair of sneakers. The walking they do in their commute can be fairly long and unsuitable for dress shoes. This is what first came to mind when I saw these shoes for the first time. I was and still am hoping to see all those businessmen follow in suit (no pun intended) and sport these shoes to work. 
     Shortly after this collection came out, a plethora of other shoes came out which replicated this hybrid. Cole Haan was one of the brands that hopped on the bandwagon fairly quickly.     About 3 or 4 years ago, I was at Nordstrom with my Mom and Brother. We were going up the escalator and I saw a table with many shoes placed accordingly. As my vision grew closer so did my walking pace. Cole Haan had created a great spinoff of the trend and thanks to my Mom I was speed-walking to my closet to put together an outfit which would accommodate these shoes. Here's some pics of the shoes from a photo shoot.











     The businessman will commute to work and be on time no matter the weather. Way before my time (I'm 21 by the way), a solution these men used to survive the rain was wearing galoshes over their dress shoes. For those of you who aren't familiar with what a galosh is, it is a rubber slipper you put over your shoes in order to keep them dry from rain or in some cases snow (see picture below).
     As much as they are convenient, they take on an unflattering form once put on and it is hard to pull off the style. They do not conform to the contour of the heel platform and make the shoes look a little more bulky.
     Miss Prada pulled out another one of her tricks in her Fall 2012 season by presenting leather oxfords and loafers that were dipped in rubber. This solved the task of having to put on galoshes in order to weatherproof your shoes because the rubber serves as a stylish built-in galosh.

(Galoshes photo source: http://www.hangerproject.com/swims-golash-oversoles-leather.html)     
     


     I must admit though, I had my doubts about the shoes upon first sight. After more looking of the details I finally came to love them. The shoes were sold in different color schemes and the different combinations made a surprisingly huge difference in the style of the shoe. 
     When I see the brown brushed leather oxfords dipped in rubber, I immediately think of a hunter who's coming to work from hunting in the woods; the black rubber dipped loafers could easily be worn by a suave and humble older man hanging at the lounge in a bar; and Marc Jacobs wore the black oxfords with white rubber to the Miu Miu 2013 Spring show.


(above photo sources: http://www.yoho.cn/fragment/detail/index/fid/1655000, http://www.upscalehype.com/2012/10/marc-jacobs-wearing-prada-rubber-tipped-oxford-shoes-at-miu-miu-2013-spring-summer-paris-fashion-week-show/; photos below personal photos.












     The most recent hype Miss Prada has created, in her Fall 2013 Men's Collection, is a bit more subdued compared to the previous shoes shown. However, the statement is still an obvious reference to the hybrid. 


 







     As usual, I fell in love with these shoes at first sight; there is something familiar yet completely new about them. The structure is typical (mimicking oxfords and desert boots); the details are familiar yet exaggerated (the zipper replacing the laces on the oxford and the heavily stylized lugg sole). 

 Another detail that is prominent in Prada footwear is brushed leather. Brushed leather has the appearance of being worn out and this is done by an inconsistent coat and paint. A good example is the shoes seen above to the right. The thing I love about brushed leather is that it gives the shoes a great presence and a little bit more pop, not to mention the heavy coating also increases the durability.
     On that note, all of the forementioned shoes are very very heavy. The leather is thick and resilient and the soles are quite dense to serve resilience as well. When I compared the heaviness of the shoes to the 5-inch platform sneakers I have, I think that Prada's may outweigh the massive sneakers.






     In the end, these shoes are ridiculously expensive. Though the craftsmanship gives the price some good sensibility, these shoes typically start at $1100! 
     However, there is a light at the end of the tunnel. As aforementioned with the Cole Haan shoes, these highly-stylized shoes are catching on with the more affordable brands and in some rare cases are replicated very well. Of course, there are some knock-offs from China but I wouldn't suggest that if you intend on wearing them for a long time.

     As Katie Grand (the curator for the Louis Vuitton: The Art of Fashion exhibition) said- "...As long as you've got good hair and a good shoe, you can do pretty much anything in the middle" (the middle referring to the torso and legs).



Thanks for reading!


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