Soviet Reversal Trick

     

Source: Chanel Paris-Moscou Campaign

     Yet again, I have decided to cover a Chanel Metiers D'art collection. As you may tell by the picture of Sasha Pivovarova, this collection was inspired by Moscow, Russia. So get your ushanka hats on and see the opulence of the Chanel Pre-Fall 2009 collection!

  Sasha (being a supermodel of Russian descent) opened up the show. She worked closely with Karl Lagerfeld on this collection and used her artistic skills to create a set of drawings inspired by the looks (source: http://chanel-news.chanel.com/en/home/2009/06/paris-moscou-drawings-of-the-metiers-dart-collection-by-the-russian-model-sasha-pivavorova-on-the-occasion-of-the-fashion-show-in-moscow-the-city-where-she-was-born.gallery.html).

   A particularly prominent theme of the collection is the headdresses. I didn't notice this until recently but they are made out of hair. The Japanese artist Katsuya Kamo was the man behind the creations. He has collaborated with several other designers, such as Fendi, to make headwear for their runway collections. Having a mildly obsessive curiosity, I tried to find out how they were made. After watching the movement and structure of the headdresses, I realized the frame was made of a thick wire and the hair was braided over it. 

Source: http://www.photographersdirect.com/buyers/stockphoto.asp?imageid=2502296

     
     Right now, I am recreating this piece using gardening wire. This is the prototype as it is easily bendable; I'll be using armature wire for the final product. If you're daring and creative enough to make this here's a couple suggestions: don't use clip in extensions, get ones that can tie on to the wire (here's what I'm using: http://www.hm.com/us/product/22516?article=22516-B&cm_mmc=pla-_-us-_-ladies_accessories_hair-_-22516&gclid=CjwKEAjwkMWgBRCJ1L_wypbX0wkSJAC3Xio2ofRRmpkOqUJB7U2TpOuSntiXf3TyxrX1wz5EuK0ufxoCEnzw_wcB). 
     You can use a thin wire to make the frame but keep in mind it's easily bendable and very thin, if you use a more sturdy wire I would suggest a 14 gauge armature wire (also, a 14 gauge is going to be thinner than a 6 gauge), the downfall with using armature is that you will most likely need to use a soldering iron at the points of intersection which can be costly, if you do get a soldering iron make sure it can meld the armature wire.

Source: Petar Milošević

   When some people think of Russia, an image of a towering Russian Orthodox Church with ornate onion domes appears in their mind. In the collection, they are inverted and made into heels. It's a good thing the heels didn't have the cross on them or there'd be some controversy...or a hot new trend that would most likely be sported by Pussy Riot.

     

 I'm very keen on finding good deals with my fashion purchases. I've searched the web relentlessly looking for an affordable item from the collection. Finally, my efforts payed off when I found a replica of a bracelet from the Metiers D'art. Here's the link to where I bought it: https://www.etsy.com/listing/180793549/unique-and-cute-russian-doll-logo-charm?ref=shop_home_active_1. 

  LaClasse has an amazing selection of replica jewelry, including one inspired by Chanel's resin cuffs (the process of making those cuffs requires much skill and even a high-fire kiln) which are quite beautiful.


     To be true to the culture and history of Russia, I've gotten many Soviet pins (many of them thanks to my Russian friend). I typically wear them in huge clusters (as seen in the picture to the right). 

Stravinsky Minaudière
with gold metal filament and a Kremlin's
roof vintage closure.

   Being a composer as well, I wouldn't do justice to this collection without mentioning Igor Stravinsky. His ballet, "The Rite of Spring," is infamous for having caused the biggest riot in classical music history. It's uneven rhythm, blasting dissonance and inappropriate (though we wouldn't consider it as that today) choreography was much too shocking to those at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées in Paris. It was here that Gabrielle Chanel was roused by the piece and met Stravinsky for the first time. Seven years later, he struggled financially and decided to pack his bags and leave for France with his family. Chanel got word of this and was kind enough to house him and his family. It is rumored that this is when they became romantically involved, but this is not confirmed. Mr. Lagerfeld, being the very knowledgable man he is, made a minaudière (a small, jeweled bag) and dubbed it the "Stravinsky Minaudière."

And now, some of my favorite looks from the collection: 

A closer look:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/
Exquisite-Chanel-
09A-Classic-Cocktail-
Dress-NEW-38-RARE-
Paris-Moscow-/291239477280?
pt=US_CSA_WC_
Dresses&hash=item43cf39c020

   

Another closer look:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/
CHANEL-Fall-09-
PARIS-MOSCOW-Wool-
Blend-Red-Boho-Metallic-Print-
Dress-sz-46-/171323850164?pt=
US_CSA_WC_Dresses&hash=item27e3b27db4

     

(All images above Chanel, detail photos collected by chics filles: http://chicsfilles.blogspot.com/2009/02/chanel-paris-moscou-matriochka-and.html)

Resource:
http://www.resee.com/chanel/moscow-collection-jacket.html

     My first ever trip to a Chanel boutique was when this collection just came into the store. I saw the second look (above) and was able to feel the fabric. It is the lightest and softest fabric I have yet to see to this day. The cut of the fourth look was impeccable, the tweed woven to a perfect texture. When you look at the black trim, it seems to pop out (seen above). Karl Lagerfeld, having an understanding of color interactions, lined a pink trim next to the black one; thus allowing it to stand out.

     Amidst my search for some images, I came across a Taiwanese blogger named Rosalie. She took pictures of the collection up close in a boutique. I was happy to see the immense detail (that can't be seen from afar) in her photos:

     To see the complete post and all of her wonderful pictures visit: http://styleblog.vogue.com.tw/style_f/article.aspx?name=rosalie&no=12595&swap_reply=&enable=&del_no=.

  



   And finally, here's the Soviet Reversal trick: America + X= Y. Soviet Russia + Y= X. An example: 

In America, you wear clothes. In Soviet Russia, clothes wear you!